Sunday, 14 September 2014

Day 6 - Newcastle and Around Co Down!

Overview

We had planned for quite a large tour around Co Down, on this warm September Sunday.

However, after a long Saturday coming N from Dublin, we rather enjoyed we taking it easy.  As you can see it was nearly lunchtime before we unplugged the EV and headed out! After rounding Dundrum Bay we took the byways around the Ardglass Peninsusla - before heading for the Strangford Ferry.  We then followed the coast around the Strangford Lough with two stops on the way.

Other visits mentioned in the outline plan included the NI Folk and Transport Museum on the N coast of Co Down, together with the Titanic Exhibition on the outskirts of Belfast.  But both were casualties of the re-planning; however, its always good to have an excuse to come back to great places!

Sunday Morning in Newcastle!

We woke in the morning in our elegant room in the Slieve Donard Hotel check out the Photo Gallery - better images than I could produce!   The hotel is one of a small chain of locally owned hotels - previously unknown to use - the Hastings Hotel Group.  It is a remarkable story of how their entrepreneurial leader built a successful hotel chain against-all-the-odds, during the wonderfully understated 'Troubles".   Not only are the hotels commercially successful - but they have achieved the highest standards for comfort and service.  the Slieve Donard has been named the Best Irish Hotel in the Prestigious Travel Media Awards - 2012 and again in 2013!

What impressed us more that public awards was the hotels attention to detail, including significant activities to promote the highest ecological standards and emphasis on sustainable tourism!

The breakfast spread was quite exceptional and when you read the little booklet, it was clear that quality and sourcing of the food was a matter of honour and prestige for the very best of local suppliers!   Here is the Breakfast Booklet - these suppliers truly are the best of the best.  We ate the porridge - with lashing of cream and Bushmills Whisky; we savoured the prime ham and gourmet sausages; had double golden eggs; grazed on the black and white puddings; the diversity of fresh-from-the-oven bread was nothing short of fabulous!

Our plans for an early start on the tourist trails - were history!  We couldn't even lift a limb to avail ourselves of of teh delights of the ultra-modern, highly sophisticated Spa!












We checked the car and all was well - 100% charged at the hotel's on-site charger!


A Healthy Morning Along the Shore

To the rear of the hotel is the Royal County Down Golf Course - apparently a firm favourite for World Class Golfers and hosts of many tournament including the Walker Cup.  Also to the rear is a pristine sandy beach that goes on for 2-3 miles.  Having seen the beautiful promenade - we decided to work off our gastronomic excesses with a bike ride - along the shore-line!





The background of the Mourne Mountains and its brooding clouds makes for a rather dramatic setting! At the south end the the house are are only 2 deep before the steepness makes it impractical to walk - let alone build property!





At 50 yard intervals there are some very interesting pieces of street art - this stainless steel caricature is of Percy French - one of Ireland's most famous song-writers and entertainers!

You would be surprised how many of his songs are still know - outside Ireland!  Like "Abdul a Bull - Bull .." !































At the south end of the town there a tiny harbour and this shot was taken at the end of the jetty - I'm not sure if it was the sea air, or the after effects of the Bushmills - but my co-driver wanted to savour the moment! 

Back on the Tourist Trail

We eventually headed out on our Tour of Co Down around noon - a glorious sunny day - war with only a light breeze.  Its a detour to go round Dundrum Bay, but we kept the coast on our right heading round the Ardglass Peninsula.  When we got to Ardglass we were stunned by the fine character of this tiny village port.   Somewhat more important in medieval times - but the legacy is a number of fine building - indeed more tower houses than any other town in Ireland - read more from the link above!

The harbour was quit (being Sunday) - but the fishing boats looked looked like they had been earning their keep!  Had we been homeward bound we would have taken the opportunity to stock-up on their famous kippers and smoked salmon!
Next stop was at Strangford, at the entrance to Strangford Lough - the largest inlet in the British Isles, covering 150 km²!  The loch is almost totally enclosed by the Ards Peninsula and has been designated a conservation area - managed by the National Trust.   At least seventy islands along - most of which are occupied - or at the least farmed!  This charming video highlight the NT's role in supporting the peripatetic life to those who farm the Strangford Lough Islands.

The town boast a medieval castle pf modest size and lots of beautiful houses with sea views.  Its is also the location for a ferry that goes across the mouth of the lough!   Near the ferry is a very convenient EV charger - but there was no hope of it delivering power to us - dead as the proverbial!  Ironic when you consider that 60 yards away is Britain's largest Tidal Turbine, capable of delivery 600 kws
Here is the Ferry Terminal, with the charger - just out of sight amongst the cars.
We were quickly loaded and you can catch some of the local charm - unchanged for 200 years!
The crossing was all too short and we were almost immediately looking at the equally charming town of Portaferry!  I know of nowhere in UK, where you can find such tiny seaside villages - that ooze such immense unadulterated charm!  There are none of the blights we are all to familiar with - over commercial development and high density housing that might detract from their unbridled charm!
No time for us to dawdle though - we had two more calls to make - before a gourmet meal booked at the Slieve Donard!  Our next stop was to be at we think is one of the NTs greatest 'gems' the bijoux manor house and quite extraordinary landscaped gardens know as Mount Stewart !  
Its modest in size compared to similar properties in England - just the size we would choose for a family retreat.   Tow small to encourage the hoi polloi!  However, don't assume that the dynasty was poor.  Lord Londonderry also owned: Wynyard Park, Co Durham, and Londonderry House, in Park Lane!  
The decline of the Londonderrys makes interesting reading and you can read a bit about Londonderry Tragedies here!

On this occasion the house was closed, due to renovations - but having been here before (long ago) - we were content to simply enjoy the gardens!  Apparently the location enjoys a very mild climae and has been exceptionally successful in cultivating a wide variety of plants  - they are laid out very much on the style of an Italian Villa, with suitable architectural features!  

I'll let the photos speak for themselves - but do remember they were taken in late September!
































Evening

The sun was low over Strangford Lough as we motored out the gates of Mount Stewart and followed the winding road north to Newtownards.  My memory is of a small market town central to the fruit and veg industry - local people rave about the 'Comber Earlies', they are the earliest potatoes available in NI and they have a unique flavour and consistency. They have an earthy, nutty flavour and are instantly recognisable by their soft, thin skin, which is often already peeling at the time of purchase.  Quality potatoes have been an obsession for the Irish - for centuries.  The town has changes a lot and today, its very much a dormitory town for Belfast.  We had come here to meet up with 'Exy' a notable raconteur on the internet and regular contributor to LeafTalk.  Steve and Trish had invited us to there lovely home, up on a bill overlooking the town.  I'm sure Steve will forgive me for saying that he passionate about all sorts of cars and not just his immaculate Mk 1 Leaf.  Like many of us his passion for cars goes back decades and when he is not sneaking around in his EV - he might just be burning rubber in his classic Porsche!

We chatted enthusiastically about everything EV, about the joy of the by-ways of N.Ireland.  Without saying anything directly - I think we were mutually celebrating the freedom and vitality that now exists in the Region and how pleasurable it now was to be able to travel freely and safely - absolutely anywhere.  Much of the route that I was taking on this trip was not accessible to me - for most of my adult life.  Between-the-lines Steve was saying "go on - go on - do it"!   That boosted my confidence - although I new from the media that the risks had all evaporated - my mind was still struggling to cross travel to and through many, many areas!

Ireland is well-know for Craic for which there is no literal translation and quite literally when two (or more) Irishmen get together conversation never lags!  Its an innate ability to weave conversation is a tapestry - to diverge, digress and reiterate (a little!).  However, I can always rely on SWMBO  had been promised a candlelight dinner at the Slieve Donard and I found myself being guided to the door!

Steve and Trish - profound thanks for your hospitality - hope to return the favour if you can EV over to Berkshire!

Dinner at Slieve Donard

I'm not going to write a while lot about the joy of a gourmet meal in a luxury hotel with beautiful grounds and a backdrop of both mountains and bay!   The menu was stunning, without being exotic - what we were starting to home in on is that N.Ireland has become a foodies paradise - don't take my word for it read what the Telegraph has said!   The Hastings Hotel Group, including the Slieve Donard are very much part of the movement and whilst appearance and flavour are important - its more about the quality and that it should be from local sources using sustainable methods.  In the hotel you can read all about the food suppliers and the integrity of their products - read some of it here in the Food Provenance Booklet.

I had the juiciest sirloin, this side of Texas - cooked perfectly and served with al dente vegetables!  My co-pilot had the Sea Bass - fresh as dew - flakey flesh and crisped skin!   It was all so perfect - 10/10!

What can I say - simply a perfect day!

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