Overview
We had night stopped in Coleraine, as we said yesterday we had thought that we could do well with obtaining a 'walk-up' rate. What we didn't realise was that mild September weather brings the golfers, in their droves - to Royal Portrush Golf Course. All the principal hotels were fully booked and it seemed like other hotels were hoping for the overspill! Travelodge at Coleraine was very tolerable and since they allowed EV charging (using an extension lead) - it was a great solution!
Today's route would more that double the distance to Enniskillen - but that is the whole point of leisure motoring - join up the dots to give you the most scenic and most interesting route. We certainly did that!
N Coast of Co Londonderry
We started our day in Coleraine, where the River Bann (the outlet from UK's largest lake - Lough Neagh) - finally reaches the sea It's also the boundary between Co Antrim and County Londonderry.
We ignored the main route that heads west to the City of Derry and instead followed the river to the N coast, before turning west towards Magilligan Point, which juts out into Lough Foyle. Our first stop of the day was to be at the former RAF Ballykelly, where I got by first air traffic controller license. Its many years since the skies of N.Londonderry were filled with the deep roar of the 4 x Griffen-engined Shackleton! Sadly Ballykelly did not find a reused, when Derry City wanted a airport, they chose Eglinton - a disused Fleet Air Arm Base, slightly closer to the city.
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| The first EV to use their charge-point! |
We took a top-up charge at the Benone Holiday Complex - we didn't need a charge, but it was an opportunity to check out what the had, by way of a beach. We knew it was sandy and broad - but the full size was awesome - more than five miles long 400-500 yds wide!
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| Wide Sandy Beach |
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| As fast as you like! |
In theory you can drive west to Magilligan Point at the entrance to Lough Foyle; unfortunately, HM Prisons are a bit nervous about activity on the beach and there are No Entry signs and it remains desolate! Now that peace has 'come to stay' in N.Ireland, maybe this prison will be the next to be declared surplus and bulldozed!
Since I was last here they have built a pub - the appropriately named the Point Inn - and has been well reported on Trip Adviser!
Also here is a Martello Tower - paired with another on the Donegall shore and protecting the entrance to Lough Foyle! These structures should be familiar to those from the S of England; however the were actually built right across the British Empire - see the Martello Tower story! This one is very well preserved - in fact all the Second World War 'extensions' have been removed!
What we didn't know until 2 days before getting here was that a ferry link has been built to connect Magilligan with the beautiful port of Greencastle, in Donegall! A very important lifeline to the people of Donegal and for tourists it connect the two great tourist destinations! The Causway Coast and Glens with the Wild Atlantic Way!
We had rather felt that Donegal could have been a major tour - on its own! This craggy coast has windy headlands, wonderful bays, pretty towns and I'm assured a great welcome. What we achieve in a half day, only wetted our appetite.
We landed at Greencastle a super working fishing harbour - no sign of laid-up fishing vessels in this port! Whilst Lough Foyle may produce the occasional flouner, I suspect many of these vessels turn N from the harbour and within 3-4 miles - are in out into the Atlantic!
As we headed S, I was looking for evidence of the two crash sites, where 2 aircraft from Ballykelly came to grief short after takeoff - by flying into the Donegall hills. Tn my day in the Tower at Ballykelly, we could see the blackened marks where they impacted just 50 yds apart. I should explain that RAF / Allied aircraft were forbidden to overfly Ireland - to rather than fly higher and include - the standard technique was to fly towards the Donegal coast and then when sighted to follow the coast N through the lough entrance at Magilligan and off to the N.Atlantic Ops. As I recall the story I was told was that these aircraft were in formation; however, research just now shows that the aircraft from the same Squadron, off the same runway - crashed into the same hill several hour apart. If you are interested check this date on this link 19th June 1944.
We had planned to go to the lovely sleepy seaside resort of Buncrana - rated as Donegal's No1 resort - I believe them! Unfortunately. although we had the range - we couldn't spare the time. Its on the itinerary for the our trip!!
Our next stop had to be in the busy market town of Letterkenny, which had a rapid charger! It's at a filling station near teh town centre. We needed a van to move to get access - but there were most helpful and curious. Apparently why had been waiting months for an EV to appear. We were pleased to oblige! The charger is at the Topaz garage and the have a good deli and serve a good quality lunch!
Atlantic Way
Travelling S we became very aware that we were travelling, what is called the Wild Atlantic Way - though when I read the route was 1200 miles - I was sure it a big of an old Irish yarn! However, it seems that if you keep the sea on your right from Malin Head to Cork you will have done 1200 miles of staggering in/out on every head land!
We would desperately have liked to have seen the Atlantic 'breakers' - but after Letterkenny, we were range limited and the only options for charging were Fast Chargers at Donegal City, or Bundoran.
I could have been a difficult choice - but as happens in family life - someone plays a trump card! Apparently, the trip to Donegal would not be complete without a swim in the ocean - preferably from a beach - so it was 'diect to Bundoran'.
Bundoran
As I recall it was 64 miles to Bundoran and having setoff with 94%, we found it a bit touch-and-go; however, we arrived with 7 miles remaining - and found the charger as the only object in the car park (well almost)!
Our joy was short-lived at the unit was 'in the huff' - the only error report it would give, despite multiple tries was "Attention: Vehicle Not Recognised". One might question as to why the charged needed to recognise my car? My RFID had all the User Data - did it matter what sort of vehicle I was driving?
The subsequent response from ESB that I had "failed to insert the plug correctly" was rejected. I confess my response was probably fairly blunt!
A veteran EVrs, we are not lacking in initiative and since there was a mobile home park within 100 yds - there appeared to be an immediate solution! At the Traver's Caravan Park we found several Blue Commando 16 amp plugs, that we could used. We were 'on charge' within 10 mins and vry relieved!
When we met the owner, any suggestion of paying for the energy consumed was rejected!
As we have found everywhere we have been, people are curious about how an EV comes to be there - confounding their assumptions! Never once have we been asked to pay for a short-term ad hoc charge!
To the Sea - Bundoran Beach
The temperature was about 20C and the wind absolutely nil - but all the beach-side amenities were closed and there were never more that 6 people insight - perfect!
For first time on this trip we could sit down/ lay out and relax! The car was on charge and we needed to gain only about 25 miles to make our nightstop - so out with the mat - jacket for a pillow - a read of a 2-day old newspaper! Magic!
swimming in water less that 25C!
Rather than conclude the day prematurely and to guarantee a good level of charge, we said farewell to Bundoran over a Pint of Guinness - sat on the pavement in Main Street!
Last Leg - towards Enniskillen
We returned to the caravan park and found the EV with a 40 mile range - more than enough for Enniskillen! So it was: farewell to the Wild Atlantic Way; Farewell to Bundoran; and 15 mins later Farewell to Donegall! Considering the hills around, it was a very gentle rise heading eastwards to the Eire/NI border at Belleek. We had intended to visit Belleek Pottery had we been a little earlier - this tenacious little company has been a the forefront of pottery and china design and production for over 140 years - through times of stress and strife Belleek's craftsmen have continue to produce there unique and desirable art and sell it successfully all over the world! Hopefully we can catch it next time!
Belleek is on the canalised River Erne and from here you can connect on the Irish Waterways through Lough (Upper/ Lower) Erne. There are onwards connections through to the Shannon in the SW, Cork in the S and Dublin to the SE. They are also working to reopen canals through to Lough Neagh - there is a phenomenal archipelago of waterways in Ireland - some of the best - but some of the least utilised in Europe!
Along the Lough Shore
We followed the south shore of Lower Lough Erne - catching glimpses of the broad waterway. The sun was fading an the water was turning darker shades of blue as shadow fell acrosss it. It looked a perfect evening for a sail - but Fermanagh is sparsely populated and the boat population is small! There are not many inland locations where you can stay on the same tack for 25 miles!
My imagination also speculated on the Sunderland and Catalina flying-boats that occupied the lake in wartime. Many crews flew from here to provide air cover to the N.Atlantic convoys - RAF, RCAF and USAF - as I found in this morning's research many left here never to return. They flew in all weathers, with no navigation aids - other than map and compass. Tragically, Lough Erne is also the last resting place for a number of flying-boats and their crews and apparently there are markers on the shoreline to commemorate their sacrifice. A final observation from my investigations is that several Sunderland and Catalinas, were scuttled after the war - they too are resting on the mud, before us!
Arrive Enniskillen
Darkness has fallen some time before we got to Enniskillen and traffic was light as we picked our way around the towns one-way system. The E bound flow follows the River Erne and the banks are beautifully paved - with beautiful stainless steel railings bordering the waterway. No doubt touring boats will stop on the wall for a quick run-ashore - but none were to be seen tonight! We slowed only briefly as we crossed the Diamond and acknowledged it's pivotal role in recent history.
We took the Dublin Road (which goes towards Belfast?) and opposite the imposing Ardhowen Theatre we found our hotel the Belmore Court and Motel. Our first impression were very good - it was modern and stylish and set in its own grounds . There was an arc of small house marking the N boundary and the hotel stood 4 stories high - quite imposing!
We were given a warm welcome by the Alice and yes we were expected! I rather got the impression that there is a special welcome for EV Drivers! The room was absolutely superb - immaculate, spacous and all mod cons - TV, coffee making etc. However, don't take our word for it - here is complete review by the Belmore Motel PR Exec - Ellie Macartney!
Enjoy! We did!
For further reviews check them out on Trip Advisor - you may note that Trip Advisor have give them a Certificate of Excellence-2014 - hotels rarely come better than this!
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